Lyon

We left Prague early this morning to catch an Easy Jet flight to Lyon. Levi had met our cab driver coming back from the airport after dropping off the car and had arranged for an early morning pick up. Martin was there at 6:00 as promised and took us the more scenic, residential route to the airport. At one point he passed a stopped truck by driving up onto the tram tracks. I wasn't too worried until I saw an oncoming tram (fortunately there was enough room for tram and taxi). Anyhow he was a very nice fellow and it was fun to practice my Czech for a few more minutes before having to switch to my horrible French.

The flight to Lyon was super easy and very short (about 1hr 15min). We did pretty well getting onto the train to downtown Lyon - even getting help from an English speaking fellow from Saudi Arabia who had studied in Corvallis, OR (!). We had some struggles getting the Metro ticket machine to read our credit cards but finally realized (duh) that we could use Euros. Walking to our hotel was impressive for the sheer number of restaurants we passed that looked really great (and had the scents to match).

Our hotel is called the Hotel des Célestins which is by Place Belle Cour on the Centre Ville peninsula that is bordered by the Soane and Rhone rivers. It is an old style French hotel with the funky tiny elevator, windy staircase and cool wood doors. The neighborhood is filled with restaurants and clothing stores. I'm tempted to box up all my clothes and mail them all home just so I can buy a new all-French wardrobe. However, if all my meals are like this afternoon's lunch I won't be able to fit into anything I've brought.

For lunch we ate around the corner from the hotel at a place called Le Comptoir des Marronniers. Yummy yummy. The crazy thing is that all the menus look appetizing so it's pretty much a matter of saying, "That one." Who knows what dinner will bring. We'll have to see after our nap.

Final posting from Prague

Well, we head off  tomorrow morning. for Lyon. Bye bye Czech Republic. It's strange to think we have a week in France since it feels as though we've been gone a long time. I can say without hesitation at this point that I've packed too much. I'll never wear the colder weather clothes I brought just in case - the weather is full-on summer (and I've got the pinky glow to prove it). I'll just have to avoid purchasing anything more. 

Today was just a wandering around and lazing kind of day. No particular destination in mind. We went to the Memorial for the Victims of Communism (see the pic). Our friend Suzanne recommended it. I liked it - the figures gradually disappear as you look up the stairs - my kind of art. 

I'm awfully tired so this isn't he most interesting post. I'll send it out when we get to the airport tomorrow morning. 

More from Lyon on Thursday.

Final day in CZ

First full day in Prague

Callipygian picture from yesterday

Navigation lessons

One thing you learn quite quickly when driving through CZ is that many people just don't know where things are. At first I thought it was all language but, after today, I'm convinced that most don't really know where things are on maps or how to point you the correct way. Case in point: we managed to get lost getting in to Prague (my fault by suggesting we make a turn where we shouldn't) and every single person gave us different directions that seemed to go nowhere. One fellow who, when I asked where Malá Straná was seemed genuinely baffled about where I could possibly mean (Malá Straná is a major section of town that sits next to the giant river that cuts through the city). Maybe it's how they have fun with the tourists or maybe it's a genuine issue with map reading - who knows. During the Soviet invasion in '68, the Czechs took down all the street signs in Prague to confuse the invaders. 

This aspect of CZ has perhaps been the most challenging to my mind - trying to figure out where you're going. And maybe the Czechs have the same issues we have - the maps are sometimes a little incorrect or don't reflect construction and the signs aren't always clear. The moment today when I thought I would lose it was as we found ourselves driving down into a shopping mall parking lot, getting a ticket to park and having a fellow who was either security or polizei tell us he had no clue about how to help us. It was fortunately still in the nervous, bordering on hysterics laughter stage when we finally figured it out how to get to the general area of where we wanted to be. 

The one moment of triumph in directions was when Levi asked a woman where Nerudova Street was and she said "here" and when he said "number 27?" she looked behind her and said, "Here." Glory be! The car is now parked and is likely to stay that way until we drive back to the airport. 

I should also say that it was Levi's birthday and got his wish to visit the Unesco Heritage site at Telč. The photo of the callipygian statue is from Telč. 

That's all for this evening. 

Leslie Levenson

The view from our pension window

Roadside religious stations

I'm not really sure why there are so many of these religious figures along the roads. In this area you can't drive more than a km without seeing one. This is one we saw during our hike in Dije National Park. It was in a little village called Podmoli. We were able to stop for a little lunch and coffee and beer at the hospoda (pub). There are many biking and walking trails in this area of the country. It's conceivable to do an entire walking tour, going from town to town, staying in pensions on your tour. It's also possible to wrap a little wine tasting into your walking tour. We didn't do this but it was nice to know we could.

We're spending one more night at the Pension Zov. Lovely place. Time for an afternoon nap.

Adventures in Znojmo

Today we took an incredible drive to the Austrian border through the wine region of Znojmo. We managed to find our way through all the little villages without too many detours. Along the road we saw many many roadside religious markers - most were crucifixes. As we continued on our way towards a place called Happy Star Hotel, I commented on the sudden scarcity of roadside Jesuses. The first sign of trouble was the Moulin Rouge that advertised "Gentleman's Club non-stop." The billboard that went with it showed a multitude of topless women in various "come hither" poses. But the horror was soon magnified as we drove through the casino and entertainment strip that blanketed the last few kms before the unattended Austrian border (except for the annoyed and sleepy looking border policeman I disturbed to ask "Prośim? Happy Star Hotel?" Clearly confusing the name happy star with the concept of decadence and kitsch and "happy endings," he directed us back to the casino strip filled with Austrian partyers and their children rampaging through Excalibur and the other amusement parks.) We finally got turned in the correct direction and made it to Happy Star (not a den of iniquity but a very nice hotel) only to find it was booked solid.

We headed back to Znojmo where I had 2 great victories - I managed to speak enough Czech blended with hand gestures and a smattering of Hogan's Heroes German to get us a room in a lovely pension right across from an amazing chapel and church. 2nd victory - I managed to find our way back to our car, which is a huge challenge at times when you are navigating the ancient unmarked alleys. Levi used is brilliant navigation sense to drive our car back to the pension.

Here is a photo of Jindřichův Hradec, where we spent last night.

Driving in Prague

Let me say that driving in CZ is challenging. Reading signs is problematic and trying to locate the main highways out of town can be a problem. It took us about an hour to get out of the city. We did get to see quite a bit of the Soviet era outskirts and areas that were not intended for tourists. I've learned that though I may be able to say, "We're lost. Can you help us get to Bešova?" understanding the answers in Czech is pretty damn hard. At least I can make myself somewhat understood.

We're spending the night in Jindřichův H...(I've blanked on the name and Levi's asleep so I don't want to wake him. The town is like a fairy tale kingdom - everything is cobblestones, ancient, peeling walls and castle. We walked past a church and locals were singing while the organ played. It was weirdly magical. Tomorrow we plan to vet up early and wander around taking photos. We'll visit the National Photo Museum (of course!) and perhaps tour the castle. Tomorrow we finish the drive down to Znoimo for at least one if not two nights. I forgot to mention, the town also has an inhabited stork nest on the top of a smokestack.

The wifi in this hotel is a myth so I'm not sure when this post will go up. Perhaps in the morning or maybe tomorrow evening.

The photos is the traffic we ran into on the way out of Prague. Dobrou noc.

Adventures in driving

We had quite the time trying to drive back from the train station to our hotel. Took about 8 times stopping for directions but we managed it eventually. Leaving for Znoimo now.

The morning after

I feel so much more human after 9 hours of sleep in a lovely hotel in Malá Strana. We're off to get the rental car in a bit. I'm a tech nervous about driving in Prague especially since I've observes only what I could see from the cab last night. We're heading to Znoimo today. I may get to practice my Czech beyond Good Morning.

Longest day. Ever.

We are finally in Prague. I'm so tired I'm a bit crazy. We never checked into the Yotel in Amsterdam so I've got about 2 hours of sleep since yesterday morning.

Here's a funny figure we saw while wandering in Amsterdam. More tomorrow after a good night's sleep.

We are in Hamsterdam!

Very tired. Going to check out the Yotel to see if we can get a few hours of shut eye.

Waiting

We've got about an hour and a half to go. Got body-zapped. Had lunch. Got coffee. Just twiddling our thumbs. Here's Levi about to hunker down with The Brothers K.

Practiced traveler?

I had such visions of carrying almost nothing with me on our trip. A couple pairs of undies, 2 t-shirts, a dress, shorts, pants, camera equipment and that was going to be it. I was going to be so Bruce Chatwin (I don't really know if he packed super-light. He traveled a lot, though.) Sad to say, I failed yet again. As I'm packing, I'm starting to consider unzipping the expansion pouch on my bag. Why must I always overpack?!!

Took a long bike ride in the sunshine in preparation for the upcoming sit-fest (9 1/2 hours). What a day! Who knew it was going to suddenly turn summer just as we leave. I was wearing sweaters two days ago. Hopefully, we carry some of the pleasant weather with us. I could stand a real summer for a little bit. Tomorrow, this time, we'll be in the air with 4 1/2 hours to go.

Much better

Although I still have a slight cough, I'm much much better than yesterday. Finished my last day at work until mid-July though it was a busy one. I've got a chill-out/pack day tomorrow and then we're off on Wednesday.

Part of me is wishing I could take my laptop with me but it would just be too cumbersome to schlep all over the countryside. The smartphone should be enough technology to last me for the trip.

I checked the weather in Prague and it looks kind of like here...cloudy with chances of rain and in the mid-60s. I may have to include a sweater in my bag just in case. I refuse to bring the long underwear, though.

Photo upload test

Just testing to see the feasibility of sending photos to the blog.

Getting sick before travel

Sad to say, I am desperately fighting some sort of bug just prior to leaving on our vacation. I've just finished one course of antibiotics and am hoping that by tomorrow I will be feeling on the mend. I think I feel a bit better today though I write those words as I'm huddled in my bed at 3 pm on Sunday, wearing a sweater, a scarf and a winter cap.

Problem is I wake up in the middle of the night having minor panic attacks about what it will be like in Europe to feel as shitty as I do now. Doesn't help me get better.

I'll do what Natalie Wood did in "Miracle on 34th Street" - just keep on repeating, "I believe. I believe. I believe." Either I'll be better or Santa Claus will deliver me another course of antibiotics. Three days and counting.