Navigation lessons

One thing you learn quite quickly when driving through CZ is that many people just don't know where things are. At first I thought it was all language but, after today, I'm convinced that most don't really know where things are on maps or how to point you the correct way. Case in point: we managed to get lost getting in to Prague (my fault by suggesting we make a turn where we shouldn't) and every single person gave us different directions that seemed to go nowhere. One fellow who, when I asked where Malá Straná was seemed genuinely baffled about where I could possibly mean (Malá Straná is a major section of town that sits next to the giant river that cuts through the city). Maybe it's how they have fun with the tourists or maybe it's a genuine issue with map reading - who knows. During the Soviet invasion in '68, the Czechs took down all the street signs in Prague to confuse the invaders. 

This aspect of CZ has perhaps been the most challenging to my mind - trying to figure out where you're going. And maybe the Czechs have the same issues we have - the maps are sometimes a little incorrect or don't reflect construction and the signs aren't always clear. The moment today when I thought I would lose it was as we found ourselves driving down into a shopping mall parking lot, getting a ticket to park and having a fellow who was either security or polizei tell us he had no clue about how to help us. It was fortunately still in the nervous, bordering on hysterics laughter stage when we finally figured it out how to get to the general area of where we wanted to be. 

The one moment of triumph in directions was when Levi asked a woman where Nerudova Street was and she said "here" and when he said "number 27?" she looked behind her and said, "Here." Glory be! The car is now parked and is likely to stay that way until we drive back to the airport. 

I should also say that it was Levi's birthday and got his wish to visit the Unesco Heritage site at Telč. The photo of the callipygian statue is from Telč. 

That's all for this evening. 

Leslie Levenson

The view from our pension window

Roadside religious stations

I'm not really sure why there are so many of these religious figures along the roads. In this area you can't drive more than a km without seeing one. This is one we saw during our hike in Dije National Park. It was in a little village called Podmoli. We were able to stop for a little lunch and coffee and beer at the hospoda (pub). There are many biking and walking trails in this area of the country. It's conceivable to do an entire walking tour, going from town to town, staying in pensions on your tour. It's also possible to wrap a little wine tasting into your walking tour. We didn't do this but it was nice to know we could.

We're spending one more night at the Pension Zov. Lovely place. Time for an afternoon nap.

Adventures in Znojmo

Today we took an incredible drive to the Austrian border through the wine region of Znojmo. We managed to find our way through all the little villages without too many detours. Along the road we saw many many roadside religious markers - most were crucifixes. As we continued on our way towards a place called Happy Star Hotel, I commented on the sudden scarcity of roadside Jesuses. The first sign of trouble was the Moulin Rouge that advertised "Gentleman's Club non-stop." The billboard that went with it showed a multitude of topless women in various "come hither" poses. But the horror was soon magnified as we drove through the casino and entertainment strip that blanketed the last few kms before the unattended Austrian border (except for the annoyed and sleepy looking border policeman I disturbed to ask "Prośim? Happy Star Hotel?" Clearly confusing the name happy star with the concept of decadence and kitsch and "happy endings," he directed us back to the casino strip filled with Austrian partyers and their children rampaging through Excalibur and the other amusement parks.) We finally got turned in the correct direction and made it to Happy Star (not a den of iniquity but a very nice hotel) only to find it was booked solid.

We headed back to Znojmo where I had 2 great victories - I managed to speak enough Czech blended with hand gestures and a smattering of Hogan's Heroes German to get us a room in a lovely pension right across from an amazing chapel and church. 2nd victory - I managed to find our way back to our car, which is a huge challenge at times when you are navigating the ancient unmarked alleys. Levi used is brilliant navigation sense to drive our car back to the pension.

Here is a photo of Jindřichův Hradec, where we spent last night.

Driving in Prague

Let me say that driving in CZ is challenging. Reading signs is problematic and trying to locate the main highways out of town can be a problem. It took us about an hour to get out of the city. We did get to see quite a bit of the Soviet era outskirts and areas that were not intended for tourists. I've learned that though I may be able to say, "We're lost. Can you help us get to Bešova?" understanding the answers in Czech is pretty damn hard. At least I can make myself somewhat understood.

We're spending the night in Jindřichův H...(I've blanked on the name and Levi's asleep so I don't want to wake him. The town is like a fairy tale kingdom - everything is cobblestones, ancient, peeling walls and castle. We walked past a church and locals were singing while the organ played. It was weirdly magical. Tomorrow we plan to vet up early and wander around taking photos. We'll visit the National Photo Museum (of course!) and perhaps tour the castle. Tomorrow we finish the drive down to Znoimo for at least one if not two nights. I forgot to mention, the town also has an inhabited stork nest on the top of a smokestack.

The wifi in this hotel is a myth so I'm not sure when this post will go up. Perhaps in the morning or maybe tomorrow evening.

The photos is the traffic we ran into on the way out of Prague. Dobrou noc.

Adventures in driving

We had quite the time trying to drive back from the train station to our hotel. Took about 8 times stopping for directions but we managed it eventually. Leaving for Znoimo now.

The morning after

I feel so much more human after 9 hours of sleep in a lovely hotel in Malá Strana. We're off to get the rental car in a bit. I'm a tech nervous about driving in Prague especially since I've observes only what I could see from the cab last night. We're heading to Znoimo today. I may get to practice my Czech beyond Good Morning.